176. ROAD TO PAKISTAN

I needed just one - it's there and opened for business - so here I come Pak, ready or not...!

And no, there weren't ready for tourists - it's raw, authentic - till the hordes descend sometime in the near future - right now, it's business people, particularly the Chinese who have made headway dangling their big fat carrots...

I passed this Pakistan-China Friendship Center in Islamabad which is this huge warehouse size exhibition space which will produce anything and everything the Pakistanis can possibly need or want.
The Japanese have been there earlier producing Suzukis, Hondas, Toyotas, the Koreans supply Samsungs...
Their version of auto rickshas is commonly referred to as Suzukis...

Their tourism infrastructure has some way to go. It will need tons of moolah, international help and political will. I feel like a pioneer entering this place, but in time to come, changes may spoil the place if not done well and worse, its people will lose their innocence and purity. Right now, I shall relish the experience, for having seen changes elsewhere, more often than not, it's negative...except for that wonderful give and take...virtually non-existent in Singapore...

Everywhere I went, I'm stopped by the people, old and young, for photos. I'm like a celeb, maybe an alien, there are hardly foreign tourists. Many speak English, when they know I'm from Singapore, they utter Ishaallah, hand on heart. It's a blessing, a compliment, I would be concerned if they uttered a curse...

At this Faisal Mosque in Islamabad, I lost count of the people who posed with me, couples with young kiddies and grandmas, youths, teenagers! They were shy, polite and soft spoken - and so genuine...

The most interesting slice of local life is all out in the streets. 

These are their Suzuki taxis. Each is different. They are kept clean and prettified with curtains and other odds and ends...they take pride in that...

The male drivers are not macho about pinks and reds and frills and flounces! Pretty much like the Indians!

So much trouble and work has gone into the backside! The metal fringe sways as it moves along creating tinkling sounds...the eyes have it - don't come too close, I'm watching you!

I don't mind when these disappear from the streets - horse and mule carts...they've vanished from many Indian cities...

Trucks compete with Suzukis for attention...the artwork is really quite beautiful and original very likely hand drawn as no 2 are alike...beaut! They've not reached that stage where everything's done by machines - labour's cheap and plentiful and they create with pride...

This tractor will not be left out...

This little contraption seats up to 8 adults with driver and more if they're kiddies...

On country and hillside roads without public transport, folks hitch a ride - no charge!

He's no Ah Beng - their young men don't colour their hair - they are not yet there...

 In the town limits, this is not permitted. It's when they are travelling out that they are able to latch on like this, at their own risk of course. There is much laughter and chatter - life is simple, innocent...

He prepares my batura lunch. His samosas were good. This too is a familiar sight in India...

Top pic - he hawks corn in their unique way - many foodstuffs are not tampered with so they don't look attractive as it's without additives...but for how long? Will the Chinese business folks change that?

Upcountry, this becomes a common sight - I share space with herds of goats, sheep, cattle, horses. The drive from Lahore to Islamabad was at least 5 hours...wonderful thing is, they're not plagued by traffic...the horn rarely used...

The mountain roads to Shogran and Naran were so very bad. The jeep ride was uncomfortable. The mountaintops were lovely of course, it's Autumn, there was snowfall. 

Many young people find their way here during their university break to chill out. The Pakistanis are a liberated people despite the negative press they receive from chiefly, the Western media, which are manipulative and control the minds of its readers by telling them how horrible the people are and its lousy government. 

It's true, for decades, they've been run by political parties that were totally corrupt and self-serving - the usual descriptions apply - cronyism, nepotism, the whole gamut. Their people have had a difficult time, but than they are chiefly tribal with a tribal mentality - they had to go through that evolution, that fire before they could emerge a 'purer' quality. 

Perhaps, its time has come, under a new PM, educated in England since a boy, changes may be afoot but there's so much to fix, he has to put out fires first (like Duterte) before he can make any progress - ie. if he dosen't get bumped off first (not necessarily by his fellow Pakistanis) ....and of course, China saw the opportunity and came calling with bags of cash. Maybe this is necessary to generate the money and jobs to uplift the lives of the locals...(hopefully)

I wish the Pakistanis well, they really deserve opportunities to better their lot - most are decent good folks...they just want a livelihood to take care of families, put their kiddies through school and have a decent roof over their heads...all the things 

Singaporeans have taken for granted and see that as entitlement. 

This is so lovely to see - the Sun was coming down - these young men put the music on and did a spontaneous salute to the Sun with this dance...they certainly know who's the Preserver 

The Kaghan Valley has 2 main towns Shogran and Naran. This Saiful Malook Lake in Naran is quite beautiful, surrounded by snowy mountain peaks - the place shuts down completely during the winter months

My lodge accommodation in Naran...

The heater is attached to this gas cylinder which was placed outside the room - 'just in case' - the staff are a good lot - they try hard to please. This I found to be the case in the several hotels I was in... 

This was in the hotel in the mountain regions - a troubled area for decades...over tribes or politics or both, people kill and fight their own people...there's a lot less of that these days, its people involved may have grown tired of decades of infighting which brought them nowhere - perhaps the internet showed them there's a different world outside and that they were manipulated all that time...

Simple pleasures - they are as fanatical about cricket as the Indians. The Pakistani team recently won big in some international match - that should keep them peaceful for a long while...to focus on bats, not weapons...

From the mountain tops, it's back on the road down to Islamabad. Spotted this hotel with a peaked roof Chinese temple style...

Jeeps use this wooden bridge all the time...that's the back of one...the bridge is supported by rusty cables but I suppose their people aren't too concerned as the drop isn't high...!

My signature 'on edge' pose

It's persimmons season - pomegranates too - I had my fill as the fruits and nuts were 'clean' one can tell it's sun or air-dried and natural, as they were not attractive. I bought from roadside and market stalls...

walnuts with shells au naturel - looked like they were roasted but that's their original appearance...those sold in Singapore are a standard one colour of plasticky light brown...so too with other nuts in shells...dried apricots looked pale not the orangey shade available in Singapore...consumers really need to be more discerning - as with a human, the natural appearance is never perfect

Guess what these are - at first glance they looked like blood sausages or intestines

This is how roasting is done...

I covered so much ground and came across just 1 person wearing a full face burka - and 1 Chinese restaurant cum wedding hall...

This hotel lobby looks like a boudoir! They catered to business people I noted at breakfast time - no hordes of tourists

Their people...

As was the case in India, my drivers in Lahore and Islamabad were beyond reproach. They spoke simple English, were most attentive and walked me around, something drivers don't need to do ... it's their first time driving people from Singapore so they started googling Singapore! One came to the conclusion it's a rich country with rich people! 

I took pains to explain that corruption is not a culture, tax money is put to good use and carefully looked after to make it grow, keeping its currency strong and going a long way in countries with weak currencies. Notice, in countries with entrenched corruption in which state coffers are raided - they are on the verge of bankruptcy, Pakistan is one, Malaysia is the latest casualty, there are many others scattered around the world...if Singaporeans think changing their current Government is good, they had best think long and hard. 

It's not just about corruption, it's about international relations and whether counterparts want to cooperate with those from Singapore who have neither track record nor experience. 

Should the government of the day weaken or fail, what those neighbours need do is squeeze the 'chicken neck' - Singapore needs them more than they need Singapore. She has to work and get along with the rest of the world as she has nothing to fall back on - reserves can be used up - that too can be plundered by the wrong people at the helm...

Singaporeans are by and large, frogs in the well...when operating too much on a small island, it's people end up with small minds...they may brag about their travelling but they do that with blinkers on - their senses numbed by too much rich food, too much materialism. Still others spend their Sin $ on cheaper alcohol, drugs, sex, readily available in the neighbourhoods...

The government of the day fails - they can say sayonara to their 'fortunate, blessed life' (the adjectives they use)

This photo shoot was taking place amidst some ruins so I took the opportunity to do my own shoot - Pakistani ladies in the cities appear to be a liberated lot...many don't cover their heads. They don't all wear their traditional dress, just modest dressing. The above model showed skin and the onlookers were fine with that...most had make-up on with nail polish - many speak fluent English...without an accent

Young women and young men mingle freely...there's hope for Pakistan in her youths, their future. This is another society with a huge youthful population, chiefly English educated - given opportunities, they too will soar...as with the Indians...

The lovely young women here are sketching Lahore Fort and its Walled City...

These ladies offer their skills to women to train as beauticians and hairdressers...those from rural areas or widows...I'm really glad to note that their womenfolk realise it's up to them to change what is not right or good - to empower themselves...

I couldn't believe my ears that their women still suffer this cruelty at the hands of their husbands or suitors - acid attacks - crimes of passion...I read about this years back but the ladies tell me it still happens. Besides Indian males, Pakistani men receive some serious bad press on their extreme cruelty towards their womenfolk...wouldn't be too surprised if it's so in Afghanistan...

The 3 ladies in black are victims, they were confident enough to chat with me...asking about crimes against women in Singapore...

I wish this Foundation every success and blessing for the work they do - rehabilitating victims of acid attacks - they guide and help them through recovery after surgery, train them for jobs, educate them and do whatever they possibly can to return self esteem to them. Husbands have been found for some women under their care...they arrange marriages in this society...

It's really progressive in Islamabad, Pakistan's capital city...it's not a big city and it's still pretty quiet without road congestion and polluted streets. Visitors are chiefly their own out-of-towners...

Their arts...

marble tiles with stone inlay - commonly seen in Mughal style architecture...they don't have funds for high tech or the latest equipment, so the work is on the rough side...

When a people do not have excess, they don't have a throwaway mentality - here, a woven plastic carry bag that has seen better days, is stripped of its plastic strips and reused as a duster which, in their case, is to dust the furniture in their shop. People in such societies are the most eco friendly, it stems from lack of - it's folks in so-called 1st world societies who suck in so many areas...

Light moments...

This bug was likely in the hot water pot - when brought to the waiter's attention, he scooped up the critter with a teaspoon and walked away with it with a smile, no changing the coffee! Why waste?! I found it comical as it was almost like watching those simple comedy shows showing a culture clash! (something Mr. Bean would do)

This young man operates from his battered jalopy, a photo studio printing out quick digital photos that are passed to him by photogs outside a mosque which is visited by out-of-towners...price of that photo? A princely S$1.00 - my driver gasped...

What looks like Tabao is Tabaq, name of a restaurant...!

I notice trees - I wondered about this palm with its rough trunks - most palms have smooth trunks - must be hard to climb with bare feet...!

The Monal Restaurant sits atop a hill overlooking Islamabad - a really nice spot to be seen in. It's costly by their standards, but packed with young people that afternoon. It's like a hangout spot for their middle class in their cool hoodies, fashionably torn jeans, Ray Ban sunnies and chauffeured cars! To show they've arrived! It's also a tourist spot for other young people who can't afford a burger here and they hitched a ride up to this hill to look around and click some pics - most were schoolboys - they approached me to have pics taken!

That all important after lunch siesta - they are so much like the Indians but of course they'll be the last to admit that. They eat virtually the same food which has the same names, they speak a mix of Hindi and Urdu, but understand and speak Hindi just as well - and of course, they are equally fanatical over cricket!

Politics divided them into 2 peoples, religion divided them further...essentially their DNA tells them they are one...when I first started writing this blog in 2004, the gist of those early postings were all about this oneness. 

Closer to home, Malaysians and Singaporeans were one, politics divided them into 2 peoples, the culture and conditioning in each separated them further and in Malaysia's case, their dominant religion (read: political Islam) was used by their politicians for manipulative purpose with the Arabs and Arab-trained 'scholars' infiltrating surreptitiously...but than, thousands of Malaysians work here, Singaporeans are semi retired to Malaysia - this intermingling may make them realise they are the same people...

I enjoyed their museums, one in Lahore, the other in Islamabad. Exhibits are too numerous for picture taking but I found the Lok Virsa Heritage Museum terribly interesting. The learning stops when there's little or no interest in museums, the exhibits speak volumes and louder than books...

All in the English Language...no Urdu

The Faisal Mosque is all marble - it's modern, fairly new. I couldn't help but notice that halfmoon - it's perched on Shiva's head too - if you should notice that on any image of him...it's about the waxing and waning of the moon, of spiritual significance...as that controls the ebb and flow of Earth's tides...so too, most of our body is water - protoplasm...the moon's pull on the human body is at the subtle levels on the subtle bodies...

As someone who grew up in Malaysia, the day of the annual Muslim New Year is determined by the sighting of the moon the night before - they've lost that spirituality...

The Shalimar gardens aka as Shalamar has definitely gone to the dogs. It was a UNESCO cultural and heritage site in 1981. In its heyday it must have been really something. Fortunately, it's still solid and can be restored to its former glory and grandeur with lots of moolah, the right people and political will. Right now, the headache for its new PM is how to keep the economy from collapsing so restoration will be the last thing on his mind even if he's fully aware tourism dollars is critical. He's now in Beijing to see how China can do more.

The rot in Pakistan shows how things can go terribly wrong when a country is in the hands of the wrong crowd - bent on enriching themselves and their sycophants...hiding behind religion, wealth,  power and influence and their paid thugs - crooks of all shades get away with all manner of crimes due to the lack of rule of law and corruption in which they pay their way out. It still happens in many societies - only in Singapore will a rich scion of some tycoon family gets jail time for drink driving...only in Singapore will a foreign diplomat receive the same treatment for molest of a hotel employee in his room...

A country in the hands of the wrong ruling party goes down very quickly...like ten pins. And it takes a mighty long time to restore what was lost and things can never be the same, possibly for a whole generation or 2...ask anyone from those societies who have gone through really tough times when their economy failed due to corruption, mismanagement, inefficiency...they suffered the triple whammies of high unemployment, inflation and deflation. 

There were Singaporeans who lost plenty during financial crises when they had to sell fancy properties (fire sale by their banks) in which they settled for a small government flat with all the austerity measures that come with been newly broke. Picture all that if a financial crises hits when there's a failed/weak government in place...

There was just one restorer working on this marble wall in this huge compound...

Their iconic Pakistan Monument, an all Pakistani creation...the 4 'petals' have carvings depicting important events in their history and their Founder and national heroes...

This is Jahangir's Tomb in Lahore, a familiar name in India for the family is associated with several monuments there...particularly the Taj Mahal, erected by one of Jahangir's numerous sons.

All Me!

My drivers acted as photographer/art director - instructing where to  stand for the best light! They would snap up to 5 pics each! In their hands, they turned out pretty clear - I've always blamed my grainy pics on my mickey mouse cameras but I see it's the person behind the lens!! They share my liking for doors and archways. They enjoyed themselves snapping so I let them - besides, there's little or no others walking around that I can ask! Such bliss!

Lahore has most of their old buildings - chiefly mosques and forts, rich in culture, historical and architectural merits...this is the Wazir Khan mosque, their hand woven prayer rugs are fabulous

These latticed windows are typical Mughal decorative features in the style of their carved wooden screens. I've come across these in North India, notably in Rajasthan. They are just 1 to 2 ins thick, are carved out of red sandstone or terracotta...

In my driver's hands, even the graffiti walls looked stylish! He certainly made me look good!

The Badshahi Mosque in downtown Lahore is one of my 2 favourite buildings. It's a must-stop on most itineraries so the downside of tourism is, the greed it generates in the locals, and this is everywhere in the world, more so, when societies are poor and corruption is a culture. This shawl was given to me at the entrance to cover my head (I had a hat on) but not given to locals. It costs my driver S$1.00 - I told his office to be sure to reimburse him. Our shoes left at the entrance cost him slightly more. He was so decent, instead of asking me to pay up, he paid them... I've been inside numerous temples and mosques, shoe and bag storage was free...

The Badshahi is fabulous...

My other favourite building is the Wazir Khan Mosque below, which is in the process of restoration which is a slow process as there were just a handful of workers who worked chiefly on the tiled walls...the colours were so lovely, quiet and muted, despite the art being so busy. Islamic art and its calligraphy is beautiful...

Lahore has most of their heritage buildings, Islamabad has newer ones...

So much potential waiting to be restored to her former glory and grandeur, just waiting for the money to come in...

These pics below are of Lahore Fort and its walled city...nice place...I like best of all, there's hardly anyone blocking my view!

They do not want their religion to be associated with either Hinduism or Buddhism, so this blossom on the roof is a cornflower despite looking suspiciously like a lotus...

So raw and authentic - if and when they restore all their lovely heritage buildings, I sincerely wish the folks behind it will preserve them as much as possible - not redo them too drastically.

The pathway is rustic and non slippery - it's just brick with stone emphasis - so eco friendly, making full use of materials that's locally available or simply leftovers that lasts practically forever. 

The Wagah border is where the Indians and Pakistanis perform their daily evening ritual with a rah-rah  'war dance' where soldiers from both sides of this gate will strut and stomp fiercely amidst much cheering by their people, chiefly students and other uniformed groups who are bused here to add to the buzz! I saw this previously on the Indian side at Amritsa, this time I'm viewing the performance on the Pakistan side. They are equally exuberant.

The flags come down...

...and the gates shut till the next evening's performance...now why can't they just stay friends, I believe the people can be friends, it's the damn politicians...

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