A PASSAGE TO INDIA: 166. THE NILGIRIS

151. The Isha Foundation

Flying into Coimbatore gave me a reason and an excuse to take another look at the Isha Foundation to see what's new. Plenty is new.

The Adiyogi - the 1st Yogi, Shiva - that's inside the ashram, is dwarfed by this other steel monstrosity out in the fields, facing the Velliangiri Mountains.

The estate has become so much larger. Sadhguru must be expecting an influx of more people, even more so during important festivals when he graces the occasions. When I was here nearly 2 years back, there was a lot of building going on. This time round, there were a lot more local tourists, likely from out of town, who came to check out the neighbourhood, it been the Harvest Festival of Pongal, a long holiday break.

The Isha Foundation is well run and organised. Security is tight. Public and private areas are demarcated, I couldn't get into areas where I could go into when I was a resident guest.

This steel image is 112' tall (34m) - 112 is the number of chakras - energy centers - distributed throughout the human body

"This face is not a deity or temple, this is an iconic inspiration. In pursuit of the divine, you don't have to look up because it not somewhere else. Each of the 112 possibilities is a method to experience the divine within you. You just have to pick one.The idea is not to build one more monument but to use it as a galvanizing force towards self-transformation"

– Sadhguru on the purpose of the statue.

We meet again Nandi! I'm still trying hard to sit as patiently as you with awareness. This time I managed to snap this pic with you when the 'watchdog' had her back turned!

This other Nandi was at a shrine enroute. She's a beaut - carved from a boulder, she too sits in silent patient contemplation

Shiva - symbolised by the snake - aka - the Kundalini Serpent Fire, the ultimate spiritual energy...Sadhguru's a Shiva Teacher.

This energy has been misinterpreted and misconstrued for far too long. In these Adam & Eve imageries, it tries to interpret the same thing about the Kundalini - that of the Sushuma (the spine as illustrated by the tree trunk) and the snake twirling around the trunk illustrates the Kundalini Serpent Fire. The 2 entities - the common name is 'Adam and Eve' illustrates the male and female energies of the Ida & Pingala, (the Polarities) as it rises from the base root chakra (Muladhara) in the anal region.

This is the awakening of that Kundalini Serpent Fire...the apple is the physical sex energy (the forbidden fruit) in which the 2 were warned not to eat (savour) 'The fruit in the middle of the garden (the body, as the Tree of Life) ye shall not eat or ye will die...for with human birth they will have to suffer human death...

Clicked another pic before anyone noticed. This room was where I attended the daily evening 'Presence' for some beautiful music and chants during my last retreat...the energy in this room is good

For disobeying house rules and for taking pics, you get your nails pulled out (lol) - anklets are adjusted to ring less...

A cow tram - clean, environmentally kind - cow dung is recycled into fuel and other purposes - the Indians are super at that. Tamil Nadu has a progressive state government. Over 15 years, I've come into TN 4x - the changes have been drastic.

Sadhguru's message has always been to take care of the environment and recycle whatever that can be recycled.

In post 151 I wrote about the recycling efforts within the ashram and the greening of TN with tree planting days. It's one of the cleanest states in India. No where, anywhere are plastic bags used - not even roadside vendors have them - they're practically banned. If you should ask for one, their eyes widened, they're quite shocked!

Fines for littering and other anti-social habits is a princely 100 rupees - S$2!

reusable bags used in nearly all shops...or paper bags

Channa to them is kachang puteh to us - came in a paper cone recycled from pages of a mag...just like in the old days for us but a tradition in India...

Our roadside chilli pakoras was served on newsprint - it certainly absorbed the oil - together with rich fragrant masala tea, it's a satisfying tea break.....the ride from Coimbatore to Mysore was a long one...while the vendor dipped the fritter into batter using his fingers, our driver cut and serve...how neat is that!

I overdosed on masala tea - had it every day at tea time with puffs (pastries to us). I was in danger of leaving the country with excess weight around my middle, looking too much like a puff!

Went through some lengths to get the best recommended puffs...

Tea or snacks from the roadside sarabat stalls, somehow taste much better - can it be the dust and fumes improved its flavour! I drink to that!

Ooty was cold, even when indoors ...

My toes got numb from the cold from checking out the hotel...India has many heritage type hotels restored from colonial buildings. Many are located in their hill stations where the 'Britishers' retreated to during the infernal Indian Summers. They are relatively inexpensive and I've managed to enjoy the ambience, thanks in part to the strength of the S$...something I don't forget...it has given me the freedom to explore places in order that I may connect dots, to put together pieces of the jigsaw puzzle of Life and Creation - to have 'aha!' moments that only I know...

A traveller is but a pilgrim on a quest...

A real wood fire in the room...!

The long and winding road to Ooty had 29 hairpin bends.

To Coonoor, there was another 30 odd...

Weather's beautiful...

Crossing state boundaries between Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, my driver had to produce documents...

The drive afforded me some panoramic views of their famed Nilgiris tea plantations, hillside homes stacked like containers, really nice hotels and homestays...

The drive cut through 2 large forest reserves, the Bandipura and Madhumalai, where Jumbo and Bambi foraged unmolested, together with gibbons and monkeys.

In the deeper forests leopards prowl but it was accessible by jeep and that adventure may take a whole day so I passed...

My love affair with old trees continues, India has so very many.
They value and respect them and are allowed to be wild and free...

O! majestic old trees, how do I love thee?
Let me count the ways...
I love thee till the twelve of never...
Till hell freezes over! lol !

In this unkempt compound even fallen trees have a certain raw beauty about them. The Indians don't waste energy and manpower clearing these trees...they are left to return to the earth and small creatures and plants make a home in them - as always in Mother's scheme of things - Life supports Life.

The Indians know this only too well and when there's so much land - live and let live. At dusk, this place would be spooky to walk around, what with the shadows and creature noises. I explored it while there's still light - at one stage found myself alone with squirrels and crows to keep me company. I was one with my surroundings

If you can spot him, he came right up to my feet to check me out as I walked along this ledge. He dosen't fear the humans he would have been undisturbed living in this compound

The Nilgiris is the collective term for a mountain range stretching across Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Kerala. Where I was is popularly referred to as the Nilgiri Hills with Ooty the most populated hill station and likely the most developed.

The highest point here is just 2,600+ m - the Doddabetta region, which was quite vibrant that day as it was the Pongal Harvest Festival and folks were enjoying quite a long break from work and school...

This is a refreshing change from creepy crawlies in bottles. Here it's all herbs, roots, bark, seeds, oils. Those seed pods open up to reveal natural soaps organically made and formed by hand. They are deliberately kept small in size as they are soft and disintegrate once it comes into contact with water so are used up quickly.

This roadside barber makes a killing from the truckers who stop by a pitstop...the Indians are tops at hole-in-the-wall businesses, all they need is the minimum and they are in business. I've seen so many in my forays and always marvel at their adaptability and resilience...

He chisels away to form images, she polishes with water - another roadside business - I'm sure they just get by...

They are not afraid of colours so teddies come bright and eye-catching.....chocs too are colourful and tasted decent...

I made his day, he made mine. For 10 rupees (Sin 0.20 cents), using one's own camera, one poses with his pet and hat. I asked if he'll pose for me, he gamely obliged - he donned a hat to look the part! His smile when I handed over the 10 rupees was priceless - he and the other vendors chuckled as I walked away - they must surely think I'm some nutty foreign dame. I was pleased as Punch to hear their guffaws!

Entry charges everywhere was so very little, foreigners paid the same as locals, which was like cents in Sin money....this wasn't so in North India where entry charges for foreigners were a lot more with separate queues for them...I'm not sure if this is only applicable to Tamil Nadu - a progressive State indeed...

These clay matakis water coolers are so cool! It's too heavy to pack one home so I settled for a bottle. I drank from such coolers before, liked the earthy chilled taste, the minerals from the clay are beneficial, my ayurvedic practitioner tells me...

In the lobby of my Coonoor hotel...

These armchairs will always be inseparable, each has its armrest on just one side

Poinsettias are left to grow tall and free...

Same species, different colours - because they are grown in close proximity to each other, cross pollination took place and viola!

These are the fruits, seeds and prayer beads of the Rudraksha tree. It's the first time I'm setting eyes on the fruits, the prayer beads I've seen many times - in Sanskrit, it's known as a Japamala or mala and like all prayer beads for chanting, it has 108 beads...the Catholic rosary too...

They like having their pics taken with foreigners - on every trip I'm asked to pose for a pic or 2 - that day in Mysore I had 4 groups coming up to ask!

Like a scene from that ancient movie Casablanca - what's missing is fog

The Ooty Botanic Gardens has some really old trees. The place is huge and sprawling...

The Boathouse on Pykara Lake is a nice spot to sit still, enjoy the cool weather, commune with the elements, have a juice and simply let go...

How do they determine who's overweight? Many have ample bellies!

It was necessary to don safety vests but the staff waved everybody on without it...!

The Indians are such practical people. The boats are just pontoons fitted with an engine and benches and taupaulin shades...

This was outside the gates of a school run by the Bahais...

I've always thought Trinity would be Catholic - this one's Protestant. As Indians, they would be aware Trinity would be Brahma, Shiva, Vishnu - Creator, Destroyer, Preserver - the Trimurti in Sanskrit...

Across the road was the Catholic St Stephen's, looking almost alike...

...which had a crypt in its basement - columbarium to us...it was windowless...it was deserted...I made a hasty retreat...

The St. Philomina Cathedral was more cheerful...

The fabulous Mysore Palace and Museum is a huge sprawling estate...descendents of the State's former ruling family maintain this as their official residence.

...its courtyard...

As with most things associated with royalty, the rich and famous, the influential and powerful, their possessions make loud statements. But what beautiful art and skilled craftsmanship! And the talent is local.

...and the wall and ceiling frescoes...they are as glorious as those I've seen in Europe or Russia, only those are very well maintained. But than, their entry charges are a lot more. India's entry charges are pennies for locals and a few dollars for foreign visitors...

In SG, the museums allow free entry to residents and the President's official residence allows visits on national holidays...