126. TERENGGANU

 

The East Coast states of Peninsula Malaysia have always been for me at least, a walk back in time. Things still move slowly. Unfortunately, the changes are haphazard and look quite unplanned. It used to be, when driving along the coastal highway, the road hugs the South China Sea. Now, that body of water is totally hidden from view by Malay reserved land in which stand a good many Malay owned houses, put together untidily, many areas unkempt, a good many abandoned.

The non-Malays are pushed away into their own enclaves. There are fewer Indians living in the East Coast states, Kuantan used to be predominantly Chinese, now Malays are relocated into such areas to dominate those cities which used to have more Chinese and Indians. Some of these 'Malays' may not even be Malaysians but Indonesians. Many workers in the hotels and restaurants are from Nepal or India.

This will likely be my last visit to the east coast...

 

Such coffee shops/restaurents have character and there's loads of them throughout Malaysia. Many cook up some really good tasty fare. Nothing beats ala carte meals whipped up by their local Malaysian Chinese cooks. The atmosphere is hustle and bustle, for many it's eat and run. In small towns, familiar customers have become friends of the proprietors so they sit down for a drink or two and chat.

I could'nt believe my eyes to see such serviettes still been produced. I grew up using these in restaurants that cater to wedding functions...Like!

A good many early migrants to Malaysia as with many other countries in the region, were Chinese. Inevitably, they formed dialect group clan associations.

In this small town in Kuala Terengganu are these Khek and Hainan Association buildings

They still have this turtle sanctuary to save and preserve the species. The babies were so few, I'm not sure whether this is just for show as its location is next to a resort. Rantau Abang used to be very happening with hordes of tourists staying over to view turtles coming ashore to lay eggs. It's now dead as a dodo, the turtles have stopped coming and the eggs if and when a sighting takes place,  probably dugged up by residents for sale in the markets. Although sales are banned there's very likely no enforcement as I spotted some in the local markets

This is a thriving industry in several states - cultivation of swiftlets in abandoned homes and custom built ones, for their nests...

Petai pods or twisted cluster beans....

Petai trees grow wild in the jungles of South East Asia. It smells bad, tastes bitter but scientifically tested to be nutritious. Villagers in the region have eaten them for generations and used it to treat a variety of ailments, like stomach worms, and many live healthily to an old age without the common lifestyle health problems associated with those who move into cities and subsequently change their diets to rich foods. The commercially cultivated ones have lost their natural bitterness and I suspect, its efficacy as a healing plant...

No chendol dessert in SG can be this good - look out for stalls operated by Indians - Like!








Roadside 'moonshine' drink stall - to try their coconut and nipah palm fermented drink - No Like!

The batik produced at this center was truly junk. The old traditional styles painted on by hand with pride and passion seems to have been replaced by the rubbish I saw here. If this is indicative of elsewhere in Malaysia, they have no right to claim batik originated from Malaysia.

Even handwoven kain songket - their silk with gold and silver thread embroidery have disappeared, it's all done by machines now. Mahathir said something smart for once when he admitted that his Malay tribe are a lazy dishonest bunch and not at all progressive...at least he didn't blame Singapore for that...for he's best known as a Singapore basher...

Needless to say, the highlight of this trip for me is communing with Mother, by the South China Sea in Cherating and Telok Chempedak. My big favourite is the rustic very small town of Sungei Lembing where every resident knows everybody and help when needed is always at hand and all one needs do is holler.

Sungei Lembing used to be an important tin mining town, but like Ipoh, those days are gone with the worldwide dip in tin prices causing all mines to close. The richer residents have moved out to cities, the villagers cultivate swiftlets for their nests and sell locally produced biscuits to visitors with many offering their homes for homestays. The saddest thing is, the residents don't produce the snacks, everything is supplied by a manufacturer so everyone's selling the same packaged stuff. Whatever's happened to their cottage industries, to the pride of producing a unique product handed down through the generations? That too has gone the way of the dodo...

After a few weeks doing the usual grind, I get ready for my 15th foray into India, covering West Bengal and Sikkim, after which I shall give India a rest and turn my attention elsewhere...