194. THE FAR NORTH - KEDAH

The purpose of this road trip was to check out the Bujang Valley and remnants of a past civilisation which suggests a people of Hindu origins had made a home here. Sad to say, the descriptions of some artefacts were not professionally done, almost like there's a reluctance to mention that a people of non-Malay origin were here before. A large container obviously used for pounding rice grains to separate the rice from the husk, was described as a something else.

I've come across such rice pounders in East Malaysia and other South East Asian nations...Kedah and its neighbour, Perlis, was for a long time, the rice bowl of old Malaya...

The bricks were moved here from its original location...reconstructed here...looks like a kiln, the inscription dosen't say much...

fossilised wood boats chiselled from trunks

The only exhibit in which a Hindu settlement and Sanskrit terms were mentioned. Only Museum buffs would be interested enough to read the fine print or do further research...the large majority would glance through the short write-ups that go with the exhibits...

This is referred to as a spittoon for folks who chew betelnuts - looks like a shivalingam to me. Why do I doubt the description? Indians in old Malaya simply spat on the floor, those who chew seriously would be of a lower socio-economic strata, chiefly older folks, they do not use any special receptacle. It was the Chinese who used spittoons, chiefly to gargle their throats with tea, after which they spat that into the spittoons that are under a table at home or in an eating house, this too was a practice of older people.

Until spitting became socially unacceptable in China and India, it's commonplace for their people to spit all over the place. In the rural areas they still do so...but no young Indians there chew betelnuts.

The Hindu symbol of Creation the yoni and linga - in the first pic, the circular motif in the center of the yoni is the symbol of the 1000 petal lotus of the crown chakra - the center of enlightenment...

The 2nd granite structure was described as a pounder for dried shrimps which the locals (Malays, in this case) use in their shrimp paste (seriously?) To the best of my knowledge, only fresh shrimps are ever used. Such stone mills ground glutinous rice into flour for cakes. 

Having worked in a museum environment in Singapore, the staff involved in its exhibits are specialists in that field...

These were described as sugarcane juicers using buffaloes to work them. The folks of old must be producing to quench the thirst of the entire population

As always, everywhere I go, I notice trees and the life it supports in its branches, leaves, trunks, and her roots underground - Life supports Life - for trees support the lives of the humans too...in more ways than they realise...

The drive from Kuala Lumpur to Kedah was a leisurely 5-6 hours with breaks along the way. At this pitstop in the middle of somewhere named Gurun, was this grand buffet table which offered everything for little money. Away from the more expensive cities of Kuala Lumpur and Johor Bahru, eating out was really inexpensive in Kedah towns, despite its proximity to the tourist island of Langkawi. Most diners would be visiting from out of town not so much local Kedah residents...

Corn juice was so good even if I wasn't sure about the colour...

Cheap rice packs with a good many chilly selections. The vendors seem to spring up by the sidewalks by certain times. In these small still unspoilt towns, small home businesses seem to flourish, just like in the old days - I don't think they are licensed as it's an income for them and the State governments permit it as they are not seriously creating jobs for their residents. Most of the local Malay residents work in government services, or in tourism related businesses...those jobs are reserved for them...

Local markets are where I find sweet juicy fruits grown by smallholders, in which the fruits are small in size or misshapen...and of course, when asked to skin those small brown chikus, he did, so I may eat them right away...!

Putu mayam and their famed chendol are no longer made by their Indians, I see Malays doing most of this - not sure how it compares in the taste department...

This sweet young man hawks his Malay cakes (Nyonya cakes in SG) from the back of his car, made by his Mak. They were so good! No license needed to sell in reply to my questions...he asks if I'm a journalist  Haha! close...!

Sungai Petani is the 2nd biggest town in Kedah State, after Alor Setar, its capital city...the former Alor Star...

Street art - the writing's on the wall...!

An International school in this small town - seems it has some surprises up its sleeve. Once it opens up even more, once the tourist $$ starts coming in, investors and its State and central governments may pump in more moolah. The foreign tourists dropping by are the day trippers from nearby Penang who visit Langkawi and bits of Kedah, many are Malaysians from other towns...

Life is simple with simple pleasures - during school breaks there are those who go to work with their parents who run a stall somewhere...this little one below sleeps on a dining table whilst her parents man their cooked food stall...

so quaint - the water was boiling hot so it was served to me with a large chunk of ice on a saucer...

This clock tower in the heart of Sungai Petani was presented to the town by a local wealthy Chinese resident, to commemorate the reign of King George V, after his passing in 1936 - don't think his family knows this tower exists, let alone know where's Sungai Petani!

Took a detour up Mt Jerai to check out this Gunung Jerai Resort. Perfect hill station for R&R for meetings etc...It overlooks padi fields below and the Andaman Sea on one side. The weather was warm but breezy throughout although it's monsoon season and I went prepared for wet weather but it was dry and I saw all that I came to see. Meanwhile it was pouring in Singapore down South and I'm just so happy our reservoirs are topped up...

Made another detour, this time to Kota Kuala Muda that was hit by the 2004 Asian Tsunami. The homes destroyed were left as is, forming part of a memorial cum photo gallery

Passed this elegant grand old dame whilst on a walkabout - sitting in quiet dignity, waiting for the day when the money will come in to salvage her dignity and restore her to her former grandeur - she's truly beautiful this dowager...

Sungai Petani has several disused buildings,

substantial in size, obviously expensive to operate and are currently 'abandoned' - they too are waiting for the day when they can be revived. This red and white beauty has no description anywhere but it's facade is terribly interesting. That tower above looks Moorish, in the front there's several posts with lotus buds atop of them. On the verandah below there's an inscription in Chinese - the year is 1921

In the early days in old Malaya and Singapore, police stations looked alike, in the same colour scheme, these 2 are disused too

This is one of my favourite buildings, the Kota Kuala Kedah Fort and Museum - all wood, in a typical Malay style architecture. It houses a museum, around it is remnants of a brick wall of a former fort, located by Kedah River

This other place is also known as Fort Kuala Kedah, constructed as a Marina, the report below says it all...

It's roofs were in danger of collapsing, there were no barricades nor warning signs nor security of any sort - I suppose it's enter at your own risk...

"KUALA LUMPUR: Over RM61 million in losses were incurred when two marinas built by the previous government did not attract any yachtsmen and failed to take off, the Auditor-General’s Report revealed.

According to the report, the Kuala Kedah marina never opened its doors since its completion in 2003 while the Pulau Mentagor marina in Perak never recorded the arrival of any yacht since it began operations in 2010.
Two other public marinas in Muar, Johor and Tanjong City Marina in Penang had also stopped operating due to faulty pontoons while the Tanjung Gemok marina in Pahang which ceased operations after it was handed over to the Malaysian Maritime Enforcement Agency (MMEA).

These public marinas are among 11 marina projects under the Eighth and Ninth Malaysia Plans with a total cost of RM323.16 million"

 

In Alor Setar's Chinatown, this tower was partially boarded up but one could still get into the compound, no signboards anywhere, so enter at your own risk here too, which I did as there was not a soul anywhere!

The most happening place in town must surely be this cafe. 

These traditional fishing boats, Perahu Kedah, give this modern cafe a really nice vibe. The building may be old but after an extensive facelift, it's looking good. In keeping with its Chinatown location, Pekan Cina, the upper floor is very Chinese...

Ice cream and cake never tasted so good!

Alor Setar's main attractions are within walking distance of each other, most are converted into museums, one an art gallery...

above, the Kedah State Museum, below, the former High Court now the Sultan Museum housing a late Sultan's memorabilia and all the rest of it...

The Kedah State art gallery - nice building, nothing taking place inside...sad looking exhibits...

It takes lots of money and professional specialists to run good world class museums. Most are free entry or there's a charge depending on the exhibitions. Singapore's museums are run as non-profits, so I understand when I visit museums and find some exhibits dusty, falling apart, poor maintenance, not well supported by locals...who have little interest. The top ones everywhere are truly world class and entry tickets can be a tidy sum...

In this other town of Alor Setar, this is my favourite building - the Kedah Royal Museum has a front and a back facade, almost 'human' - this would be the front - it's beautifully done up as it's used for official functions involving the royal family of Kedah and other high profile social events.

Yellow is the preferred colour of Malaysian royalty. The exhibits are chiefly personal memorabilia of the family...

Love this custom made rug depicting a crest - the guard who shot this couldn't get the exhibit behind and the full rug into one frame. The exhibit behind me was of a royal wedding...

...and this is the back of the same building, less grand...less yellow.

What caught my eye was this bottle gourd on the roof - very Chinese - this building may have belonged to a non Malay person before...

These 3 towers are the landmarks in Alor Setar's town center

Norbat tower - also known as Hall of Drums. It's small inside, more a tower than a hall, changes may have taken place during renovations. Norbat is an ensemble of 9 percussion instruments and the orchestra play on special occasions involving royalty.

This clock tower is literally called Big Clock Building. It's clock tells the muezzin in the Zahir Mosque nearby to announce the call to prayer...

Incidentally, Kedah was at one time under Siamese (Thai) rule but there are no signs of that around the towns, not in any of its older buildings...

The Zahir Mosque, their pride and joy. It's a nice looking building, the older original section is more than a century old. The architect being British, added Corinthian columns with glass chandeliers and dark woodwork...

Black tudung looks terrible on me, will pass as an accessory for bad hair days...it's the very first time I'm required to cover my head, everywhere else, it's a robe if legs show too much skin. In Pakistan and Uzbek, it wasn't an issue. The receptionists acted as guides...

Rumah Merdeka - House of Independence, the family home and a museum in memory of their 1st PM at independence. Kedah produced 2 Prime Ministers, the 1st one and the current one whose family home is below...