A PASSAGE TO INDIA

'A TRAVELER IS BUT A PILGRIM ON A QUEST'

Friday, August 28, 2026

261. PADANG, SUMATRA

 

























It's Indonesia's 81st year as an independent nation...flags were flying everywhere, students were practicing their marching to prepare for a national celebration...



The Minangkabau people are an ethnic group native to the highlands of West Sumatra. They have a unique matrilineal way of life in which lineage, property and land pass from mothers to daughters while their men hold traditional and religious roles...
Indonesia is very diverse. Each region can have their own ways of life and practices.

I'm in Padang, the capital city of West Sumatra province. I was last here in 2009. About 2 months after I left, an earthquake devastated Padang. This current trip, an earthquake hit another part of Sumatra. In 2004, the big one followed by the tsunami flattened Aceh at the northernmost tip of Sumatra.

Thank goodness it's such a huge island! I wouldn't want to be around when the earth opens up or moves under my feet - that would be my worst nightmare. It's not a life experience I'm after! Moreover, Singaporeans have absolutely no training in earthquake response and protection...I will likely follow a local to a safe place - if the earth doesn't swallow me up first!



I covered a lot of ground. It's rugged in parts...
Sumatra is by the Indian Ocean...




The small towns along the way have their own unique snack items, I sampled them all!


Toasted freshly grated coconut snacks done over wood fire in clay pots...at this stop below in Bukit Tinggi, the local coffee was good...




Heave ho! Had a durian fix at this stop! This place has some creative ways with durian desserts...


This particular durian dessert below is super! It was served at a bakery cum cafe set up by a former Indonesian actress - Christine Hakim - her business used the same name. Based in Jakarta, she came over to Padang (but of course!) to meet and greet and host us...our visit was milked to the max. Her cameraman was busy, loads of pics were taken - it's great publicity for her business, I'm sure we are now splashed all over their website. We are famous - the Singaporeans at the Padang outlet! We should be paid as 'calefares'! 
I'm happy for her - I'm sure she has worked hard for her success...and jobs are created for the local residents...



The bakery has some interesting cake designs, the cheese cake caught my eye!




Young, hungry for more I'm sure...
The older folks are afraid their young will lose their traditions and moral compass as is the case elsewhere in SEA. Padang and surrounds are still rooted in family and traditions, it's still raw and authentic...




Another lunch stop that was only too happy to host a large group. The business owner was all smiles, was dressed nicely to welcome us with a welcoming committee of young musicians, a speech by him to welcome us (he in the purple suit). 
My lunch lurks beneath that beautifully embroidered 'tea towel'
It's clear in the outskirts of Padang, they don't get many tourist groups. If any, they're Malaysians. Most would be local out of town visitors driving through...

The business owner lived in this very traditional style house, it's external walls are wooden planks covered with painted decorative features and carvings...a gracious home. Someone at a window was recording a video of us when we arrived - another business owner about to splash us on social media! 

 close-up details of house


I had my fill of Padang food. They come in numerous small plates with small portions which can be topped up, some items chilly spicy, some not so...a variety of parts unknown!



Small business only! If the food dosen't agree with you, go to the right room...! What if there isn't one nearby? Ah O! Culture clash!


This roadside shop did roaring business, this is sustainable shopping, I'm all for this. I did my part by buying from a market stall. Like!


It's a coastal community, seafood would be plentiful...


While the rest shopped, I unlax and chillax and take in  the view - we were up in the hills, weather was pleasant...

Don't rock the boat!

Coffee break...



This clock tower takes pride of place in the Bukit Tinggi town center. I like its crowning glory - the symbol of the Minang people - Gadang architecture with its symbolic buffalo horn-shaped finials representing a connection to heaven.


This wild purple fountain grass is a huge favourite of mine whenever I come across it. Its stems may be burgundy in Bukit Tinggi, in Singapore, there're a lighter shade and in Korea, there're more 'blondie' Seen as a huge clump in a field there're truly beautiful as they sway in the breeze or a strong wind in which they will never snap. Like lots!


It's beautiful up in the hills - not just the cooler air but the vegetation as well and the creepy crawlies...






These are extinct in Singapore. Rhinocerous beetles, moths, particularly, the Atlas moth, the largest in the world. This one is considered small, they can get a lot bigger, this one covers just 1/2 of my face...a large one I encountered in a Malaysian forest could have obliterated my face. Sigh! What has Singapore's greening of the country done to our insects and bird life? Obliterated them! It's not natural to have as much trees and bushes as we have and not have nests, webs, in them. No insect life at all, not even those fire ants. No caterpillars. No worms. No food for birds. Notice, only carrion birds are plentiful, they eat food scraps, dead birds if any, for these are quickly cleared by the maintenance workers. Not a rat anywhere. Nor a fly...jeez! Our youngsters need to travel North to experience them, they may collapse should a mouse cross their path as they've no idea what a rodent looks like - jeez again...!





Early morning mists and the sun's daily cycles can be spectacular...








Made a stop at this family-run coffee manufacturing plant. Below are the roasters with roasted beans spread out to cool. Had a sampling, they drink their brew black, milk is a no no! They must have some really good coffee somewhere, just that I've not been led there yet.


The Gadang style architecture is unique to the Minangkabau people of Indonesia. Outside of the Padang district of Sumatra, I've not come across such structures elsewhere in Indonesia.


Style, form, function...








Had the chance to snap couples in traditional costumes at one spot - nice! Likely wedding shoot...
Location - the Pagaruyung Palace in Batusangkar, in all its wooden glory.



Interior of Palace



Some pictures from fellow travellers. Several from Inesra, a travel representative with the ground agent, Ermi Tours. Tour made possible by Jimmy Ooi of ISE Travel, SG.


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