121. RAJASTHAN - MY 14th TRIP

The Jantar Mantar is a collection of architectural astronomical instruments, built by Jai Singh, a Rajput king,  with a keen interest in astronomy ... there's one in Jaipur, another in Delhi... 

 
The roof of the Lotus Temple of the minority Bahais, Delhi. Like the Jains, their extremely wealthy Trust is supported by their diaspora.

We drove in foggy conditions from Agra-Delhi along the Yamuna Express...their drivers are careful and civic conscious

The iconic Taj Mahal, Agra, and details on its walls....

The cosy room with all the comforts of a hotel was a tent made from heavy canvas and fabric with Indian prints, windows with matching canvas blinds, hot and cold running water and a room door covered with a canvas curtain secured with a rope 'lock' - we managed to sleep without fear of a goat or camel coming in - or a human mammal...

The desert resort, where we were the only guests and the staff waited on us hand and foot. The show went on...you can't beat service like this. In the awful summer months, the resorts in the Thar Desert close and the staff go home or work elsewhere...

These are hornets' nests which are extremely common in their old buildings. There are Indians who can be mean to their fellow humans but they live and tolerate all manner of tame or domestic creatures living closely and sharing space with them on the roads and their neighbourhoods...many are large creatures, from their cows to mules, a few camels here and there and boars with tusks, numerous stray dogs, birds of many feathers, monkeys, all manner of insects....bats...

Osian (Osiyan) below, is an ancient town in the Jodphur district. It's an oasis in the Thar Desert and is best known for its cluster of ruined Brahmanical and Jain temples dating back to the 8-11th centuries. India's numerous ancient temples and other old buildings stand practically forever. All are carved from solid rock, granite or marble and have withstood the elements. Few need restoration and would look ugly to have cement and paint over it so they pretty much leave them alone, which is wise...

Every little nook and cranny had a small business - the Indians are tops at operating out of holes-in-the wall, and they still find space to put in a place to sleep even if its a rug on the floor. How to beat such resilience and adaptability?

This roof-top terrace had a restaurant with just 5 tables...

In this quaint building in Udaipur, I took in a cultural show. The Rajasthanis have their own dancing style combined with acrobatic acts. Their puppets perform acrobatic tricks too...Rajasthani puppetry is well known

 

Colours of Rajasthan...

These kids are 9-15 years old - don't attend school, earn their keep performing at this camp site in the desert...
Perhaps because desert colours are dull and monotonous, Rajasthanis wear extremely bright and cheery colours with lots of gold and mirror work on it

From this bedroom, its owner sells drinks from an open window. Every available space is used to run some sort of business - from food and drinks to homestays to art and craft shops. Such small businesses keep this place buzzing, its people proudly independent

 

Jaisalmer had some lovely fort buildings. The drive from Udaipur took the whole day. For most part, the road was good. Drivers here are actually law abiding out on the highway. They kept within speed limits and communicated with their lights when overtaking to indicate 'all clear' and tooted gently to say 'thanks' - even truckers...

Peoples of a certain period in history are terribly tribal and territorial. As in China and Europe and Central Asia, they are warring tribes, out to amass land, riches and subjects. The minority powerful and wealthy suppress and control the weak and chiefly poor masses. After the troops move in and establish themselves, their religious 'armies' move in to colonise the minds of the conquered - using fair means or foul - hiding behind their King/Emperor/God/Holy Books/their robes...

The forts cum palaces in Rajasthan were self-contained towns where their King lived within its walls. Walls were built over a wide area to claim their territories and keep out likeminded invaders...

The Indians like doing this - posing with aliens - I've been asked to pose on every trip...these are students starting their journey of discovery beginning with their own huge country...this place in Jodhpur is the Mehrangarh Fort...

 

This trip was all about forts and palaces within forts. An earlier trip to Aurangabad was all about caves (post 111 - Cave Explorers) I had fort fatigue by the end of this trip...

 

Amer Fort aka Amber Fort - Jaipur.

Behind imposing walls, so much art exists...

The iconic Hawa Mahal in Jaipur (below) the state capital. Also known as the Palace of Winds, the original 18th Century facade was done up like a carved Indian screen with latticed windows. Traditional architecture here is unique to Rajasthan - very detailed carved stone lattices inlaid with coloured stones, arches, rows of small peep-windows, balconies and cupolas. Jaipur's a wonderful place for traditional arts and crafts, it's well known for its gem industry...and in recent years, the Jaipur Literature Festival, Asia's biggest.




The huge (every temple is huge in India) Ranakpur Temple (below) several km from Udaipur, is a Jain Temple, it's all marble and a beautiful piece of artwork. Their wealthy Trust has kept it well maintained with tight security all round...

Tucked away behind numerous lanes and homes are such shops cum residence.

Shopkeepers are quiet and unobtrusive, somewhat different from the aggressive, threatening even thuggish ones I came across in Delhi and Mumbai

The waters of Lakes Sagar and Pichola were really clean...

The Jagdish Temple, Udaipur, best known for its great number of elephant carvings beautifully done in marble...

Saheliyn Ki Bari (Garden of the Maidens) another example of the Mughals' love of beautiful surroundings, art, architecture, women - they certainly have good taste...the grounds were not impressive but the sculptures were...

The huge City Palace in the background in Udaipur, the largest in Rajasthan, and the City Palace Hotel in the foreground, in the waters of Lake Pichola...

Even our hotel looked like a Mughal palace. Udaipur's a really nice city, clean, well laid out. The hotel is by Lake Sagar where the sunset was a Kodak moment. 
I took a boat ride in the Lake which had a good many fortress and palace like structures around its banks - I couldn't tell which were hotels...
Rajasthan's well developed as a travel destination. The State seem progressive...I'm impressed